This is a small guide to Krakow in March – the last time we had the opportunity to visit. It was our second visit to the city outside the tourist season and, to be honest, this period should not be underestimated. Of course, you should be prepared for cooler days.
There are no direct flights from Sofia to Krakow in winter. But in summer you can find them – both from Sofia and Burgas. We flew with Polish airlines LOT with a stopover in Warsaw.
Brief information about Krakow
- Our stay: 2 days, we would add another one for a trip to the Wieliczka Salt Mine or Auschwitz-Birkenau
- Best time: May-June, September-October (pleasant temperature, fewer tourists) – it is quite cold in the winter months, and there are many tourists in the summer.
- Main attractions: Wawel Castle, Main Market Square, St. Mary’s Basilica, Kazimierz
- Nightlife spot: Kazimierz District (known for lively bars, restaurants and live music)
- Culinary specialties: Pierogi, Obwarzanek Krakowski (Krakow bagel)
- How to get from the airport to the city: by taxi, train (19 min), Uber/Bolt (approx. 25–40 PLN), we used Bolt.
- Currency: Polish Zloty (PLN). During our stay, we managed entirely with credit card payments and did not have to exchange money. Even the stalls in the square had POS terminals.
Morning and coffee/breakfast in Krakow
Our greatest pick for the morning was a cafe right next to our hotel – Cytat Cafe, located in the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz. It is magnificent – full of books and cozy seating areas, with many rooms. We take a menu and squeeze through a room where a young man is having a conversation on his laptop. Then passing through another, warmer room, full of people – maybe it is warmer because of them or maybe it is full because it is warmer. This is important, because outside the winter is just leaving – it is the first spring, and that day the temperature is about 2-3°C. Finally, we find ourselves in a small room with two ladies taking pictures. We sit at table 666 and order pancakes, croissants and coffees.
I don’t know if we’ve stumbled upon the most beautiful and cozy cafe in Krakow, or if all cafes here are like that, but we liked it right away. We even felt a little sad that we only discovered this place on the last day of our stay. And the ladies, by the way, advertised T-shirts – one of them’s brand, the idea is that the inscriptions on the T-shirts are positive and are written in such a way that you can read them correctly in the mirror, a kind of inspiration while looking around at how beautiful you are. This is not my first time in Krakow and my mood has always been great here, there is life in this beautiful Polish city. Mimi and I tell each other our impressions of the city and go for a walk in our stories.
Kazimierz
Our story often takes us to the Jewish Quarter of Kazimierz, where we are staying and it is one of the places recommended to see. We have heard many times that Kazimierz is one of the most authentic and magical places in the city, and we cannot help but agree. Even before we headed to Krakow, many people advised us to take a walk through the Jewish Quarter, and you will find similar advice in every guidebook to Krakow. And once we found ourselves there, we not only walked around, but also decided that this was the perfect place to stay.
Kazimierz, the Jewish quarter of Krakow, declined due to the tragic events surrounding World War II and the Holocaust. Before the war, tens of thousands of Jews lived there – the area was lively, the synagogues were full, crafts and trade flourished. But in 1941, the Nazis deported the Jewish population of Kazimierz to the ghetto created in Podgórze (on the other side of the Vistula River), and then to concentration camps, including Auschwitz (60 km from Krakow). Most never returned.
After the war, the district remained almost depopulated and neglected. The communist authorities made no effort to restore the area. Synagogues and buildings were demolished, cultural life disappeared. Until the 1980s, Kazimierz was a poor, run-down area with a bad reputation.
It was only at the end of the 20th century that its revival began, especially after the success of the film “Schindler’s List”, which was partly filmed in Kazimierz. This attracted the interest of tourists, investors and artists. Restorations began, restaurants, museums and galleries opened – and today Kazimierz is once again one of the most vibrant and exciting places in Krakow.
Kazimierz is a district that combines the authentic charm of old Krakow with the modern, yet preserved spirit of the past. Even though it is not “right in the center”, this place has its own unique atmosphere and everything you might need for a cozy holiday. Kazimierz is full of restaurants, cafes and bars that offer both traditional Polish cuisine and international specialties. In the evening, when the city begins to calm down, the district is filled with lights, music and humor, creating an atmosphere that is both relaxing and lively.
Where to stay in Krakow?
In Kazimierz you will find many small hotels, guesthouses and apartments at normal prices, as well as some more expensive hotels. We stopped at an old house-hotel with nice beautiful rooms and very affordable prices – Aparthotel Oberża. From here the nearest landmark is Wawel Castle, the next step in our history.
Another option for accommodation is the pleasant Kleparz district, located north of the city walls. This area is famous for its architecture from the Young Poland period (the Art Nouveau style in Poland). Its streets are lined with guesthouses, small clothing stores, traditional bistros and eateries offering a variety of cuisines – from traditional Polish to international and artistic contemporary. The district combines historical charm with the convenience of modern life, making it a great choice for accommodation in Krakow.
But the best location with the best hotels and an abundance of accommodation options remains Krakow’s Old Town. This is the heart of the city, where you can enjoy picturesque streets, historical landmarks, and magnificent architecture.
Vistula River
To be precise, the biggest attraction of Krakow is the Vistula River, which runs through the city and is navigable. It is also the longest river in Poland – 1047 km. It rises from the Northwestern Carpathians, near the border with the Czech Republic and Slovakia, passes through cities such as Krakow and Warsaw and flows all the way into the Baltic Sea. And we are on its right bank, on the left the river flows lazily, which is no longer as turbulent as it is in the Carpathians, but a slow, large river. And next to us is Wawel Castle.
Wawel Castle and the dragon stories
Wawel Castle is not only one of the most important historical landmarks in Krakow, but also a symbol of the power and greatness of Poland throughout the centuries. Situated on a hill above the Vistula River, it was the residence of Polish kings for more than 500 years and witnessed key moments in Polish history. In addition to its royal past, the castle is also famous for the legend of the dragon, which, according to legend, inhabited the cave under the hill. That’s how I got here, following the signs for “Smok Wawelski”.
According to an ancient Polish legend, the dragon of Wawel – Smok Wawelski – terrorized the city’s inhabitants, devouring livestock and even people. He lived in a cave under the castle. One day, the brave blacksmith Skovron decided to confront the monster and offered it a sheep filled with sulfur. After the dragon ate it, he became insatiable thirsty. He began to drink water from the Vistula until it finally burst and the city was saved.
Today, the cave of the dragon is one of the most famous caves in Poland. It is located directly under the castle wall on the Vistula River side and can be visited (we did not go inside). Right in front of its natural entrance stands an impressive statue of Smok Wawelski – a favorite character for children and a symbol of the city’s legendary past.
Tip: Our kids were extremely happy to have a T-shirt with the dragon painted on it as a souvenir – a great gift idea. They are sold everywhere in the city.
Wawel Castle – Kings stories
If, like me, you have found yourself in front of the fire-breathing dragon Smok Wawelski and are looking at the reddish fortress walls of the castle, you may decide to visit the exhibitions inside. The first and most important thing to know is that even a whole day may not be enough. The entire castle is divided into different sectors and you can get a ticket only for those that seem most interesting to you. We recommend not to miss the Royal Apartments and the Treasury, which will immerse you in the spirit of the Polish aristocracy and the history of the kingdom. We chose to explore one part of the complex and embarked on a tour through art and history.
You can buy tickets on the official website of the castle or on site: wawel.krakow.pl
Wawel Castle is one of the most iconic and sacred landmarks in Poland. The complex includes the impressive Royal Castle and the Cathedral of St. Stanislaus and St. Wenceslas, where monarchs were crowned and buried. In addition to its historical significance, Wawel impresses with an architectural mix of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque.
Turkish tents at Wawel Castle
I love to see different and sometimes exotic exhibitions. We spent a lot of time on the Turkish tents in the castle, which occupy a special place in the cultural memory of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth – not only as trophies of war, but also as symbols of prestige, wealth and refined taste. They were brought from the battlefields or actively traded with the Ottoman Empire. Used for hunting, traveling or meetings of the Sejm (their parliament), these tents were not only shelters, but also a stage for political and diplomatic negotiations. Trade in Turkish fabrics and furniture flourished in cities like Lviv, and local Armenian craftsmen even began to produce tents in the Ottoman model.
Their production requires high craftsmanship – cotton is used for all layers, the inner panels are decorated with silk and gold thread applications, and the outer textile is impregnated with a special mixture to be moisture-resistant. The tents are a nice reference to the battle near Vienna, where Kara Mustafa Pasha was defeated by Jan III Sobieski – one of the most notable monarchs of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, King of Poland and Grand Duke of Lithuania in the period (1674 – 1696).
Today, one of the largest collections of Ottoman tents in Europe can be seen in the Wawel Royal Castle in Krakow. The exhibition was restored in 2020 after a long restoration and shows not only impressive tents, but also weapons, ceramics and military equipment. Every detail bears the marks of a bygone era – of clashes, but also of cultural exchange between two worlds, East and West, which for centuries met not only on the battlefield, but also in the markets, in the workshops and at the diplomatic tables.
If I want to tell you everything about Wawel Castle, we will have to recall a lot of the history of Poland and its neighboring countries. The place is extremely interesting and you will surely find topics that excite or surprise you.
Tip: If you are an art lover, don’t miss the Czartoryski Museum in Krakow. It houses one of the most valuable works of the Renaissance, Leonardo da Vinci’s “Lady with an Ermine.” This portrait of Cecilia Gallerani, mistress of the Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza, is the only painting by Leonardo on display in Poland.
Wawel Cathedral
(Archcathedral Basilica of St. Stanislav and Wenceslas)
When it comes to a tour of Krakow’s royal symbols, the Wawel Cathedral is a must-see. It is here that some of Poland’s most famous kings were crowned and buried. The cathedral also houses the remains of President Lech Kaczynski and his wife, who died in a plane crash near Smolensk on April 10, 2010, while on their way to a pilgrimage to mark the 70th anniversary of the Katyn massacre.
The Royal Route in Krakow
The day progresses for us and we leave the castle, heading north along Grodzka Street (Grodska Street). We are actually walking backwards along the Royal Road in Krakow (Droga Królewska) – the route that Polish kings took for their coronations, as well as for their funerals.
The Royal Road began on the north side of old Kraków, at the Church of St. Florian, which was located in the town of Kleparz — today a district of Kraków. The route passed through the Barbican — a medieval fortification and entrance to the city — and then continued through the Florian Gate, the only surviving part of Kraków’s former fortress walls.
Along Florianska Street, the procession reached the Main Market Square, the largest medieval square in Europe, where the Cloth Hall (the shopping mall), St. Mary’s Basilica and the Old Town Hall Tower are located. From there, the route continued along Grodzka Street, one of the oldest streets in Kraków. Along it, the processions moved towards Wawel Hill, passing the churches of St. Peter and Paul and St. Andrew.
And so we set off along Grodska Street. At the churches of St. Peter and Paul and St. Andrew there are almost always musicians, and this time we are delighted by a violinist who plays Vivaldi’s “Winter”. The sun is already approaching sunset. And we reach the main square of Krakow.
The Main Market Square in Krakow
The Main Square in Krakow (Rynek Główny) is not just the geographical center of the old town – it is the soul of the city, a scene of history, culture and life that does not subside day and night. Created in the 13th century, the square impresses with its impressive dimensions – 200 by 200 meters, making it one of the largest medieval squares in Europe.
Surrounded by magnificent stone facades and cozy cafes, the square reveals a panorama of architectural masterpieces. In the center rise the Sukiennice shopping halls, with their Renaissance arches, which were once a bustling center of trade and today gather craft stalls, galleries and restaurants. On one side rises the impressive St. Mary’s Basilica (Kościół Mariacki) with its two asymmetrical towers.
St. Mary’s Basilica in Krakow
Pigeons, carriages, people – it’s always lively in front of the Basilica in Krakow. It’s one of the city’s most iconic buildings. If you stand here, you’ll hear a trumpet call that sounds from the higher tower every hour – 24/7, 365 days a year. This call is called the Hejnał mariacki. The melody cuts off abruptly in the middle – in memory of a medieval trumpeter from the 13th century who, according to legend, was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm of an impending Mongol attack.
The signal is broadcast live at noon on the Polish National Radio (Jedynka), allowing it to be heard throughout Poland and sometimes abroad.
The first church on this site was destroyed during the Mongol invasion in 1241. According to the chronicler Jan Długosz, the Basilica of St. Mary, located on the main market square, was founded in 1221–1222 by the Kraków bishop Iwo Odroż. At the end of the 14th century, a new Early Gothic church was built on its remains.
The church was completely rebuilt during the reign of King Casimir III the Great between 1355 and 1365, with the significant help of the wealthy Kraków citizen and mayor Mikołaj Wierzynek, who is often associated with the development of the city and the famous feast for European kings.
Mikołaj Wierzynek was not a restaurateur in the modern sense, but a prominent citizen whose name was later given to the Wierzynek restaurant – one of the oldest in Europe and still operating today – you can actually dine at the Wierzynek restaurant 1364.
So, you stand in front of this historical work of art and admire the life in Krakow. In front of the basilica there are always carriages, flower stalls and cheerful people. And if you turn left on Florianska Street (ul. Floriańska), you will also find a wonderful ice cream shop.
Krakow pretzel
A very important thing to do here is to eat Krakow pretzels – obwarzanek: Obwarzanek krakowski is a traditional Krakow pretzel, which is something of a local symbol of the city of Krakow in Poland. It has a characteristic spiral shape (twisted like a rope), golden color and crispy crust, usually sprinkled with poppy seeds, sesame seeds or salt. It is prepared using a special technology – first it is blanched, then baked, which gives it its unique texture and taste.
Its name comes from the Polish word obwarzać, which means “to boil in advance”, and this is a characteristic step in its preparation. Obwarzanek has had a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) in the European Union since 2010, meaning that only pretzels made in Kraków and its surroundings according to the traditional recipe can be called “obwarzanek krakowski”.
It is sold on special carts on the streets of the city and is an indispensable part of every walk through Krakow – for both locals and tourists.
The City Tower
The Town Hall Tower (Wieża ratuszowa w Krakowie) or the Town Hall Tower of Kraków. It is the only remaining part of the old town hall building, demolished to expand the town square. The cellars of the tower once housed the town prison. It is now a museum with a permanent exhibition of photographs of the square over the years.
Barbican and St. Florian’s Church
If you head from the square along Florianska Street, you will reach the fortress wall and the Krakow Barbican – one of the most impressive and well-preserved medieval fortifications in Europe.
Built at the end of the 15th century (1498) by order of King Jan Olbracht, it was part of the city’s complex defense system and served as an external defensive bastion to Florian’s Gate – the main entrance to the Royal Road and old Krakow. From there, you can also see the Church of St. Florian.
Fine dining thoughts on Krakow, Poland
Every time we travel, we research local restaurants from A to Z – from the most ordinary diner to the highest-class establishments. Of course, these are the places that have some information online. But don’t be fooled – we always have local acquaintances who share their tips, or other enthusiasts who have already been there.
It was the same for Krakow – we read, compare, see who the “trendy” chefs are, who participated in MasterChef, who was a jury member (example: Bottiglieria 1881), and that’s how we sift through the situation. The result? For a 4-day stay, we have all lunches and dinners pre-booked – sometimes even breakfast.
But let’s talk about the gourmet scene in Krakow
Michelin Guide in Poland
Poland has long been present in the Michelin Guide. In Krakow there is one restaurant with stars. This is both the first two-star restaurant in Poland and the first one in Krakow – Bottiglieria 1881. Obviously the most prestigious place in the city, because even in the non-tourist season, dinner tables were booked more than a month in advance – and for weekdays.
The cost of dinner here is around 200 euros per person, plus a 12.5% service charge. If you want a wine pairing, add another 100 euros. Honestly, for a restaurant with two Michelin stars, this is not absurdly expensive. Bottiglieria 1881 is also the only restaurant from Krakow in the “50 Best Discovery”.
More good gourmet options
After it, there are about a dozen gourmet restaurants – each interesting in its own way. Many of them are mentioned in the Michelin Guide. The Polish Tourist Organization clearly invests in advertising on the Michelin website and there they often mention the Copernicus restaurant and hotel, which is part of Relais & Châteaux – the only one of its kind in the city. I don’t know why we didn’t go there, we just chose another one of this class. Dinner there costs over 100 euros per person.
Krakow – European Gastronomic Capital
We flip through articles and rankings – it is no coincidence that Krakow was the European Capital of Gastronomic Culture for 2019. Since then, its name and prices have been growing steadily. For comparison – we are now reading about restaurants in Slovenia, where dinner in a one-star establishment costs between 90 and 120 euros. However, in Krakow, rents are high, there are many tourists, and this raises prices noticeably.
Amarylis – a true gourmet experience
“Winter” from Antonio Vivaldi’s “The Four Seasons” is playing – the same melody from the hat of Chef’s Table, a great culinary show on Netflix, and we are in Krakow and have reserved a restaurant not far from the street musician who has captured our attention and is passionately playing this magnificent piece. The day for us is just a movie – a real scene from a culinary cinema classic – the only thing missing was the inscription “directed by ….!”
On Thursday night we sat down at Amarylis – a restaurant in a boutique hotel in the center of Krakow. Great reviews everywhere, active social media (which is important – you want to know what you’re getting), and a very charming lady sommelier who made the experience even more special.
Amarylis – the flower of winter. Fine Dining restaurant in Krakow, Poland
Dinner prices are around 100 euros, the wine pairing – again around 100 euros. Amarylis has been in Michelin since 2018, or at least since then there have been stickers at the entrance. The food was stunning, the experience – 100% worth the time. For us, time is the most valuable resource – if it’s worth it, then it’s “wow”.
The lady sommelier is certified (WSET some level), describes the wines wonderfully, and chooses with finesse. But… there is one small “but”: wine in Poland is very overpriced. Sometimes you even get two separate bills – for food and for drinks, since food has 8% VAT, and drinks have 23% (if I’m not mistaken).
A little tip: if you don’t want to drink wine in a restaurant – you save a lot.
Michelin without stars – there are also budget options
The great thing about the Michelin Guide is that, in addition to the starred restaurants, it also includes affordable but quality places. That’s how I came across Hana Sushi – a wonderful sushi restaurant in the Jewish district of Kazimierz. I sat at the bar, the chef made the menu in front of me, and I had lunch for under 20 euros.
Our first restaurant is always important
We arrived on Tuesday – and for us, Tuesday is a special day. One of our little, quiet crazinesses is this: going out for dinner on Tuesdays. It’s calm, it’s quiet, there are no crowds in the restaurants, and we feel truly special.
Even before we left Bulgaria, we had reserved a table at the restaurant opposite our hotel – Karakter. A modern and fun restaurant where you can try unconventional dishes such as pig ears, tripe and horse girls – prepared with idea and taste. Karakter is a trendy place, full of Poles, with young and smiling staff, and the atmosphere – youthful, hipster, without being pretentious, but it is also in the Michelin recommended places. We highly recommend it if you are curious to experiment and immerse yourself in a noisy evening – typically Polish.
Final thoughts
There’s a video of the cast of Emily in Paris touring Krakow – eating casseroles, having dinner at Copernicus and having fun. Do the same – Krakow offers everything from a 10 euro dinner to a 1000 euro one.
Street food and royal casserole
Zapiekanka is an iconic Polish street food, and the Kazimierz district of Krakow is perhaps the most famous place in the country to try it. This is a halved long baguette, baked with cheese (usually yellow cheese), mushrooms and often topped with various toppings – ham, salami, vegetables, garlic sauce, ketchup or even spicy additives.
While I was hanging around Kazimierz, all the tourists were eating Zapiekanka. And the most iconic place for them is Okrąglak on Plac Nowy (New Square), where there are dozens of places to get them. There you will stand in line, they will serve you without giving you change and a little rudely – typically Eastern European.
It is a cheap, tasty and filling treat that combines the spirit of street culture and nostalgia for the folk cuisine of the Soviet era. It is considered the Polish answer to the French baguette with toppings, but here it has its own character and atmosphere – less sophistication, more soul and taste. Zapekanka is not just a food – it is a childhood memory for many Poles and a favorite street food for tourists who want to experience authentic and unpretentious Polish gastronomy.
PS About the wine
We also visited several wine bars. Polish wine is expensive, quite more expensive than other wine imported to Poland. There are two reasons – on the one hand, the high production costs. The climate in most places is far from ideal for wine and, despite global warming, it is still cold. The relatively successful attempts are related to the cultivation of hybrid varieties such as Solaris, as well as cool-loving regions – Riesling and Grüner-Veltliner, for example. Of the reds, we came across Zweigelt several times. In fact, naturally sparkling wines are made with the greatest success in Poland, which is understandable. But you should know that their prices compete with those of Champagne. But in Poland, wine has been extremely fashionable in recent years and this is the second reason for its high price.
The good news against this background is that there is a rich import of everything. And Bulgarian wine from the high price range in our country is cheaper than Polish wine in a wine bar in the center of Krakow. And Bulgarian wine is definitely of better quality. So – try Polish wine – mark it as an experience – but feel free to bet on Bulgarian, Italian, French or Austrian. The choice is large.
Around Krakow
This year we had a lot of meetings with friends and work commitments in Krakow and we didn’t manage to go out of the city. But years ago, when I was younger and more impetuous, I attended a concert in the Wieliczka Salt Mines – one of the most impressive places in the area. There you can descend into the underground world of the miners, which has now been transformed into a unique underground exhibition city. The salt mines are among the most beautiful and famous in Europe, and they are easily accessible by train directly from Krakow.
Another important and deeply emotional place nearby is Auschwitz-Birkenau – a memorial complex and museum that preserves the memory of some of the darkest pages in human history. I admit that I have not yet had the strength to visit it – such places require silence, inner attitude and time for reflection.