Plovdiv is a wonderful city, the second-largest city in Bulgaria. It is a place worth visiting for a few days but I admit that we often go for just a day or two. This time is completely insufficient to explore all amazing places in Plovdiv but it still better than not visiting at all.
You maybe already have Plovdiv (Пловдив) in your must-visit list for your trip to Bulgaria. And this is an absolutely right decision. We have never ever heard from a tourist that has not liked Plovdiv. No matter for what purpose you are coming or what type of traveler you are, we bet you will love it.
What to see first in Plovdiv?
Allow some time to warm up at the first place and start with something not too engaging – like a walk around the city centre and the neighbouring Kapana district. The Main street (known as Glavnata) is a beautiful and lively promenade along the centre that is the heart of the city day and night.
Glavnata does not need any introduction. It stretches from the Trimontium hotel and the Central square through the ancient Roman stadium remains to the pedestrian bridge above Maritsa river in the north – almost 2 km.
This long and wide street is full of shops, cafes, restaurants, fast foods, fresh points, even a theatre. It also keeps the memories of thousands of local people and tourists – about wild nights in the clubs, or about calmer romantic nights, or even memoryless nights.
Everyone who has ever visited Plovdiv has a memory about Glavnata. It has been the meeting point of Plovdiv people for decades and today it is still a lively place full of people and emotions every evening. In the summer evening Glavnata is particularly popular and busy, even at 11 pm. During summer days it is a little bit lonely because it is so hot that few people would dare to take the walk.
Landmarks along the main street
You won’t miss the Together sign – the slogan of the Plovdiv 2019 European Capital of Culture. So fresh and colourful, everybody loves it and takes pictures with it.
Next to it you will see a curious and funny statue of a man. Well, this is Miljo, a central figure in many urban legends in Plovdiv. A feebleminded but kind-hearted local that has become a part of the local folklore. And this is not the only statue of him around the city. But you should better ask a local to tell you the whole story.
A street full of history – Roman stadium
Glavnata is so famous that it has its own page in Wikipedia (BG). It deserves its glory – not only because of the memories and emotions it keeps, and not only for the numerous coffee shops and restaurants.
Today’s pedestrian zone lies on the remains of the ancient Roman stadium. A part of the stadium is open for visits in situ today, on the Dzhumayata square. Here were discovered for the first time the ancient stadium stands in 1923. One of the unusual things about the Roman stadium is that it was located within the fortification walls of the ancient city. The stadium was around 200 m long. There were reserved places for the noble guests, marked with special inscriptions.
Nowadays everyone interested in history and ancient culture can go down to the remains of the stadium, have a seat on the ancient benches, read about the story of this place and watch a movie projected down there. For the tired tourists there is a café just above the stadium where you can have a refreshing drink while enjoying this great site.
Note the buildings
Glavnata is also an open-air museum offering great views of the architecture of the 20th century. Most of the houses were built in the early 20th century and the architecture has elements of classicism, secession and postmodernism. Most of the buildings are now renovated and if you have some imagination you could successfully go back in time to the years when there were no phones, no internet, no cars, no TV and Glavnata was the only place for social and cultural life.
Glavnata is also a starting point to the other attractions of Plovdiv – the renovated art district of Kapana, The Old Town, Tsar Simeon’s garden, etc. But if you had the walk through Glavnata, you might be already hungry. So were we and we decided to find a nice restaurant to have lunch.
Dzhumaya mosque
A few more steps aside you will see the Dzhumaya mosque – a famous landmark in the city centre. It is a fully functioning mosque so if you wish to enter and see it from the inside, make sure that you abide the rules. Cover your body if you are a woman and remove your shoes in all cases.
And despite the main promenade is not over, in this area you will feel tempted to take the narrow cosy pedestrian streets leading to the nearby Kapana district.
Kapana – the heart of art in Plovdiv
Our story about Kapana should start from its name. The area is known like this since Ottoman times. Literally “kapan” means “trap”, however the name of the district comes from a different thing. In the Ottoman empire they used the word “kapan” for marketplaces. And here is the reason. “Kapan” also means a weighing machine. And in the past such machines existed usually around marketplaces. The current district was formed between two markets, surrounded by workshops. They were known as Un Kapan (“un” means “flour” in Turkish) and Buyuk Kapan (Buyuk – big). So later the whole district became known as Kapana.
[info]A district named Unkapani you can find also in Istanbul, Turkey.[/info]
Kapana has been a craft district since 15th century. It formed around Kurshumhan, the largest caravanserai in the city. It was named after the lead tiles on its roof (“kurşun” in Turkish means “lead”). And the streets were named after the different crafts being practiced – Zlatarska (the Goldsmiths’ street), Zhelerarska (the Smiths’s street), Kozhuharska (the Furriers’ street). Today there are mostly cafes and bars on these streets but also some workshops and shops for hand-made stuff.
In 2013-2014 Kapana was renovated and turned into an art district, home for many craftspeople and art events. Before this is was quite a neglected place where it was not difficult to get lost, even if you were a local. However, nowadays Kapana is quite a neat and clean place. It is still possible to get lost there. But you would be happy to do it among all the cafes, restaurants, workshops, etc.
Kapana is a very dynamic place, changing constantly and also changing the people who visit it. There are places that are now only a memory in our blog, but many new exciting shops and cafes have opened.
The Old town of Plovdiv (Старият град)
The third place for a must-do walk in Plovdiv is the Old town. Not the third in importance, though. If you are staying in some hostel or guest house in the Old town, you will start from there. And immediately feel the atmosphere of the Bulgarian revival. The old houses and cobblestone streets are just enchanting, but so much is hiding behind them. So plan carefully if you want to discover all the places that might excite you.
First of all, don’t just walk along the main streets. Yes, they are amazing and there you will spot the most popular views. Willing or not, you will definitely walk under Hissar Kapia (Хисар Капия). This is one of the three entrances to the acropolis of ancient Plovdiv.
Hisar Kapia – the gate to the Far East
The name Hisar Kapia comes from Turkish language, where Hisar means “fortess” and Kapia means “door”. The current gate dates back to the ages of Second Bulgarian Empire (1185 – 1396). The houses around it were built using the fortification wall as a foundation. The foundations of the gate date back to Roman times. On this site was the ancient gate where the road to the Far East started.
St. Constantine and Helena church
Just above it you will reach the St. Constantine and Helena church (църква „Св. Константин и Елена“). If you are there in the weekend, there is a huge chance to encounter a wedding.
The site of the church is related to historical events in the early ages of Christianity. Here, in 304 AD, were decapitated 38 Christian martyrs on the orders of Roman emperor Diocletian August. Later in the 4th century, after Constantine the Great came to power and allowed the building of Christian temples, on this site was built the first Christian church in the city. It was later demolished and during the Ottoman rule on the site was just a small church. The current church was built in 1832. Now it is a popular place for weddings.
Somehow hidden behind the houses around Hissar Kapia stands the early byzantine South round tower and the remains of fortification walls that once formed the defence complex together with Hissar Kapia. The fortifications were first built around 5-6th century AD. But they were used, maintained and reconstructed through the Middle ages as well.
On the opposite corner is the beautiful Etnographic museum. And you won’t miss the street musicians playing in front of it who create an amazing atmosphere.
The three hills of old Plovdiv
The Old Town is one of the main attractions of Plovdiv, together with the Roman remains. It stretches on three of the hills in Plovdiv – Nebet Tepe, Dzhambas Tepe and Taksim Tepe. It is suggested that Plovdiv is one of the oldest cities in Europe, together with Troy and Mycenae, older than Rome and Athens. According to archaeological sources, people first lived here 8000 years ago. In ancient times Traces lived here and built a sanctuary.
The first fortification walls were built by Phillip II of Macedonia. From the Roman times are preserved many structures like the Roman Stadium, Roman Theatre, ancient Forum. When Philip II invaded the city, its name changed to Philippopolis. The city was quite famous in the ancient world and the Greek writer Lucian called it “The largest and most beautiful of all cities”.
Nebet Tepe is also an archaeological site. If visiting on daylight, you will clearly see the remains of buildings millennia old. Once there, you will be left stunned by the view.
Roman theatre
The Roman theatre is another amazing and authentic place in Plovdiv. It was uncovered in the 1970s during archaeological works and is one of the best preserved in the world. Nowadays it is a scene of many concerts, opera and other performances. You can also visit it as a tourist site against a fee.
The Ancient Theatre in Plovdiv was discovered during archaeological works in 1968 – 1979 and is one of the best preserved ancient theatres in the world. It is located on the southern slope of the Three Hills area, between Djambaz Tepe and Taksim Tepe. It has semi-circle shape with 82m radius and 28 rows of marble benches. The scene is in the shape of a horseshoe with diameter of almost 27m. The theatre was built towards the end of the 1st century BC and was completed during the reign of emperor Domitian, the last ruler from the Flavian dynasty.
Apart from theatre performances, it is believed that the venue was used for gladiatorial and hunting games. Remains of safety facilities in front of the first row have been uncovered.
A city of many ages
The first fortification walls were erected during the times of Philip II of Macedon (342 BC). From the Roman period of the city multiple objects have been preserved, including the Ancient Forum, Roman Theatre, Roman Stadium. After the city was conquered by Philip II of Macedon, the city was named Philippopolis, which was remembered in the ancient world. The Roman era was something as a golden age for the ancient city. The archaeological works have discovered remains of ancient lavish buildings.
Today the ancient glory of Plovdiv lives next to the memories of other ages, most notably the times of the Bulgarian National revival in 19th century. A notable part of today’s Old Town are exactly the houses with traditional Bulgarian architecture, bearing the spirit of the Liberation war (1876-1878) and the decades before it.
Museums and houses in the Old town of Plovdiv
When walking by the amazing colourful old houses in Old Plovdiv, don’t you wonder who did they belong to and what was life there looking like 200 years ago? Many of them belonged to local rich families or were public buildings. Nowadays most are turned into art galleries, cafes, hostels, restaurants and workshops. But some have been preserved or restored in their initial look in order to show us what life in old Plovdiv looked like once.
Hindliyan house (Къща Хиндлиян)
Our favourite from what we have seen so far. A huge house that once belonged to a rich Armenian trader who lived in Plovdiv. Hindliyan house is one of the best-preserved houses in old Plovdiv and you can see authentic furniture from the 19th century.
Upon entrance to the house, you feel stunned. The lavish wall decoration and the luxurious furniture tell the story of a really important person and family. The wall decorations include paintings of famous places in Saint Petersburg, Stockholm, Lisbon, Athens, Venice, Alexandria and Constantinople.
A notable room in the house is the bathroom – extremely lavish for its time. Besides the bathroom itself, which is in Turkish style, there was also a separate room for relax after bathing, competitive to any contemporary SPA centre.
Hindliyan house in huge and every room has a long story to tell. So don’t miss it and definitely visit it with a guide. On-site guides are available but taking one might be tricky. It depends on whether there is a free guide at the moment of visit.
Balabanov house (Балабановата къща)
It is another landmark of Old Plovdiv, representing the life of rich people in the area in the 19th century. The house first belonged to the merchant and insurer Hadji Panayot Lampsha and later changed hands multiple times. Its last owner was the merchant of wood Luka Balabanov whose name it bears today. The once lavish house was demolished in 1935 and reconstructed in the 1970s. Its current furniture dates from 19th century.
Nowadays the house is not only a museum but an art event centre as well. It also features a corner for music performances.
Balabanov house and Hindliyan house share the same yard and you can easily go from one to another. If thirsty, don’t miss the chance to drink fresh water from the fountain in front of the Balabanov house.
Ethnographic museum
The stunning building and yard of the Etnographic museum in Plovdiv are a famous landmark. The entrance is just opposite to the St. St. Konstantin and Helena church and near Hissar Kapia. Don’t miss the chance to have a break in the yard, sit on a bench and stare at the amazing building. The museum itself is a more traditional one, and you might find it even a bit boring. However, it tells the story of life in the area for millennia and is worth seeing if you are a museum lover.
Old town of Plovdiv has the perfect atmosphere for such activities. You will find plenty of small workshops and shops for hand-made items. If you are lucky, you could even see a demonstration of traditional local crafts.
Street of crafts
Stramna (улица Стръмна) is an extremely small and cozy street at the heart of the Old Town but few people can discover it even if they look for it intentionally. Its name means “steep” and is totally relevant. The street itself is almost entirely of stairs and along both sides you can find workshops and ateliers of local craftsmen. We admit we never knew about it until a local friend working for travel agency Enjoy Plovdiv took us there.
On Stramna street you can meet the only master in Bulgaria who still makes authentic Bulgarian clothes and garments by traditional manner – entirely by hand. No machine sewing, using materials created also by old technology. He is always busy and has many orders, but you can see at least a part of the process of making traditional garments. There you can also buy a hand-made wool bag.
In the neighbouring house you can also see the atelier of a blacksmith. A few steps up the street is the bakery. There you can see how bread is made by hand, taste delicious pastries and home-made lemonade.
In the same house there is a small shop where you can buy rugs, hats, scarves and other clothing made by an ancient technology called „plasti“. It is a technology where clothing is made by mixing only wool, soap and water, without any sewing.
Many other workshops are present on Stramna street but we would advise you not to go without a local guide. The craftspeople are usually wonderful people but some of them open only for special occasions. Others may just not speak any other language than Bulgarian. Moreover, finding Stramna sreet can be a challenge even for Bulgarians. Check their latest events on Facebook.
House of distillation
Have you heard of Bulgarian rakia? Oh, yes, the most popular strong spirit in Bulgaria. In the House of distillation you can see an exhibition of old equipment for distillation and taste several spirits made by the owners of the house – rakia and a few types of liqueur. All very tasty!
I can write a lot about the Old Plovdiv but it is again a place that needs to be visited and cannot be described thoroughly. To feel the atmosphere best you might want to stay in any of the numerous hostels in the Old Town. Plovdiv is maybe the city with most hostels in Bulgaria.
Tip: Free Plovdiv Tour
Tourists who are interested in such attractions need to let enough time. Maybe a whole one day in Plovdiv or even more are needed to explore the Old Plovdiv. One of the best ways to see the Old Town is taking the Free Plovdiv Tour. During our walk we met the group of tourists led by a nice girl a few times. She was always telling something very interesting about this beautiful place.
A step aside – the Singing fountains
One of the most wonderful places in Plovdiv, both for locals and visitors, is the lake with the Singing fountains in the Tsar Simeon garden. It is in the central park nearby the Central square, but stays a little bit aside from the main street and you won’t see it during the usual walk. You just need to cross the park in front of the Post office and on the opposite side you will reach the beautiful lake. Although it is beautiful anytime, the most amazing things happen on every Thursday, Friday and Saturday at 21:00. Then you can witness the beautiful performance of sound and light above the lake.
The Children Railway
If you went to Plovdiv with a kid, one of the funniest places to take it is the Children Railway. The small train goes around the Youth hill on real rails, over bridges and under a tunnel. Once there were even real train stops where children could get on and off. Today there is just one station from where the train starts its journey. The ride lasts about ten minutes to Panorama stop and then turns back. Children’s songs are being played inside the cars and the kids are really enjoying the experience. The ticket is just 1 lv. (Google Maps)
Wine tour around Plovdiv
Plovdiv is a popular wine region and if you like wine tours, this area has a lot to offer. In the city there are several wine bars, if you do not wish to travel a lot. If you are enthusiastic for a real wine tour, you may visit one of the nearby wineries. There are plenty of wineries around Plovdiv – small garage wineries, large industrial wineries and our favourites – the boutique wine cellars. The latter insist on making high-quality wines in limited series and are always happy to see visitors and tell their story.
The taste of Plovdiv
Ok, when we travel, this is the first question we ask. We definitely want to explore the best traditional places in town but we also want to know the most popular places for locals. In a city full with tourists, it is not difficult to make a mistake and sit on the most touristy places and miss the local secrets. This is why the last time in Plovdiv we took a friend and local guide to reveal the best kept secrets of the city. So here is what we discovered.
Old Town
The restaurant of Hotel Hebros is a legend that was recently renovated and opened with new management. We visited shortly after the opening, in July 2022, and the food was very good. They are also famous for their rich and very good wine list, offering Bulgarian and international wines at very affordable prices.
City centre
A place we like and locals recommend is Hemingway (Хемингуей). It is a few steps from the main street, near the Central Square. We ate there 2 years ago but locals still love it and recommend it. It is also located on a cozy pedestrian street and you can leave your kids run around while enjoying your dinner.
Another wonderful and a little bit exotic place is the Lebanese restaurant Mayriges, just behind the mosque. We had delicious hummus, falafel, shish taouk and other oriental delicacies there.
After the exhausting walk in the heat we were determined to have a fresh or lemonade and settled comfortably on the orange chairs in one of the sweet houses in Kapana. The girl showed us the freshest cakes and squeezed the lemonade just before us.
Where to eat in Kapana Plovdiv?
Kapana caught us in its trap and we didn’t want to leave it for a long time. We shared the opinion that it looks like the Ukrainian city of Lviv and the Old Bazaar in Skopje – both places with a lot of energy and history.
One of the trendiest places for dinner in Kapana is Pavazh, on Zlatarska Street. The restaurant is always crowded with locals and tourists and offers delicious meals. If there is not a free table at the moment, you could leave your phone number and get a call as soon as one is ready for you. Mind that it is a really busy place.
In case you are unable to find free seats in Pavazh, another place we love is Aylyakria. Incredibly tasty dishes and good wine selection.
The sweet tooth
Plovdiv is a warm city and in the hot summer lemonades are popular all around. But for a really sweet experience, here are some ideas.
Dzhumayata coffee and sweet house – a Turkish sweet house where you can taste baklava, kadaif, Turkish delight and other oriental specialties that are indeed quite popular in Plovdiv. The place is also very central and perfect for a break from your walk around the centre. The sweet house is just next to the mosque, a few steps from the main promenade.
Savini Artisan Gelato
We often visit Plovdiv and we do not need a special occasion to do it. Last Friday we were there just for a few hours, to feel the hot summer day, to have lunch and to take Anna to have some gelato. You know, for children it is very important to try ice cream everywhere. So we found the popular Savini Gelato, where one kid can get lost about the many tastes and rather pick her ice cream by colour. But I always appreciate variety and I had done a small research whether to find really good ice cream. We went to Savini after a recommendation, otherwise I would hardly find them myself. /location/
Where to stay in Plovdiv? Accommodation in Plovdiv
First, don’t make the mistake to go to Plovdiv for only a day. Make sure that you spend at least a night there. You won’t regret the amazing sunset and evening walks in the centre and the Old town. A weekend in Plovdiv or another 2-3 day stay in Plovdiv will give you the opportunity and comfort to enjoy it fully. Of course, you could even spend a week there and you probably won’t regret. But allow some nights in Plovdiv to see how romantic the city is indeed.
Hotel Hebros – the most authentic hotel in Plovdiv Old Town
Where to stay in Plovdiv? This is the most common questions guests of Plovdiv ask. One of our favourite places is Hotel Hebros on Konstantin Stoilov street in the Old Town. It is just a few steps away from the main attractions in the Old Town – Hisar Kapia, Hindliyan House, Balabanov House. The Roman Theatre is 5 minutes walk and the popular Kapana district is just 200 m from the house.
You can book a room at hotel Hebros from their website or Booking.com.
Read our article about the hotel: NIGHT IN THE MUSEUM: HOTEL HEBROS, PLOVDIV OLD TOWN
Accommodation with Parking in Kapana
Kapana is a wonderful place to stay, if you want to immerse yourself in the social life there. We recently stayed in this cozy and beautiful apartment with garage in Kapana, which is extremely good deal if you are travelling by car. Kapana is mainly a pedestrian area and parking is extremely difficult.
There are also numerous hostels and guest houses along the old town, Kapana and the main street. But if you stay there, make sure you are not travelling by car. Because parking in these mainly pedestrian areas is a huge challenge and you can easily be fined. However, if you have not brought your vehicle to care about, a night in central Plovdiv is a great decision.
Plovdiv city accommodation
If you are travelling by car and prefer to stay on a more remote location with secured parking and other comforts, there are numerous opportunities, too. We once stayed at Imperial Hotel**** which is maybe 3 km from the centre. It is a wonderful 4-star hotel with spacious and comfortable rooms, amazing breakfast and SPA facilities. According to friends in the travel business, it is maybe the best such hotel in Plovdiv now.
Booking.comHow long do we stay in Plovdiv?
If you have decided to visit Plovdiv as a tourist, you made the right choice. I would recommend you to allow enough time, just one day in Plovdiv is too little to enjoy. Exploring the Old Town could take hours, Kapana too, especially if you are tired and want to just sit, drink beer or coffee. You will definitely get tired after passing by the whole length of Glavnata. Walking around the city, you will definitely find many other interesting places. So even if you stay there for a few days, you will not get bored.
How to get to Plovdiv
By car
Plovdiv is a very communicative place, easily reachable from almost any part of Bulgaria. It is some 130 km from Sofia which takes around 1.30 hours by car (motorway between the two cities). If arriving by car, have in mind that parking in central Plovdiv is difficult. Large areas are pedestrian and most of the areas around are paid zone with limited time for parking. Luckily, there are some private parking where you can leave your car.
By public transport
Reaching Plovdiv by public transport is also easy. You can go by bus or train. There are regular buses from literally every city in Bulgaria so ask at the bus station of the place you are travelling from.
We also love travelling by Train and last time we visited Plovdiv we arrived exactly this way. The journey from Sofia to Plovdiv takes 2h 30 min and is relatively comfortable. Well, some of the train cars may be quite old and old-fashioned but others are new and some have a restaurant wagon. Quite comfortable, if you cannot stay at one place for a long time and prefer some space for walk and stretching during the trip. Well, if you travel from a further destination the journey might take much longer, compared to the road journey. But if you have time and patience, the train is still a nice option.
By airplane
Plovdiv also has its own airport and several low-cost carriers land there.
Shared shuttle or organinzed tour
A very convenient way of reaching Plovdiv is by shared shuttle or organinzed tour. We are partnering with two travel companies to provide you a discount for their tours.
[info ]Shuttle to Plovdiv and Rila Monastery: We are partnering with Rila Shuttle to provide you a 5 % discount with promo code AndreevTravel. Check their tours and book the one that fits you best. The discount code is valid for all of their tours.[/info]
[info ]Shuttle to Plovdiv and Koprivshtitsa or Full day tour in Plovdiv: The travel company Traventuria is offering shuttles to several destinations, including Plovdiv. Get a 5 % discount with promo code ANDT18 for their most popular day tours to Plovdiv and Koprivshtitsa and Full day tour in Plovdiv.[/info]
You can also use the discount code for several destinations from Sofia. See full list: Get discounts for day tours from Sofia
When to visit Plovdiv?
Plovdiv is one of the liveliest cities in Bulgaria and no matter when you go there, there is high probability of interesting events and festivals. In terms of weather, in the summer months Plovdiv can be really hot and hard to explore at daytime. So if you want to make long walks across the city, July and August shouldn’t be your first choice.
We love both spring, autumn and winter in Plovdiv. Snow is a very rare view there and the cold months are quite mild related to other parts of Bulgaria. So even in mid-winter, Plovdiv will be probably very welcoming.
Spring and autumn are busiest in terms of events. Street festivals, wine festivals, art festivals, food festivals – all kinds of events are organized there.
September 6th is the official Day of Plovdiv. It is also a national holiday – the day of Unification of Bulgaria, and the largest celebrations are held exactly in Plovdiv.
Check here for upcoming and regular events in Plovdiv.
3 comments
Thank you – really helpful, we are visiting today!
Did you see and this post? https://www.andrey-andreev.com/en/plovdiv-wine-tour/
If you love wine you have to try Bulgarian. You will be very surprised. And the prices are very good:)
I booked a whole month during the winter to explore Plovdiv. My only regret is that during the winter months all the fountains are drained. Despite that there are many things to see and do. Also, not knowing that Bulgaria has great wine that is another thing I’ll be exploring.