Съдържание
In this article, we will not delve into the history of wine in Bulgaria, nor will it be an exhaustive “Everything you need to know about Bulgarian wine” guide. However, we really hope you discover at least one Bulgarian grape variety through us. Or perhaps find a new winery that crafts an outstanding wine from your favourite grape. So, let us embark on a journey through our favourite Bulgarian wine grape varieties, those that have already woven themselves into our genetic palate and which we would proudly pour for our guests.
Some varieties have debatable origins, while others have been included because they have crept under our skin as so quintessentially Bulgarian that we consider the wine made from them to be truly our own.
Table of Contents
In the world of red grape varieties in Bulgaria
Mavrud
A wine surrounded by history and fascinating tales. It is also, perhaps, the most renowned of all Bulgarian grape varieties, both at home and abroad. Grown predominantly in Southern Bulgaria and partly along the Black Sea coast, the legends mostly revolve around Asenovgrad (Stanimaka) Mavrud. Perhaps the finest Mavrud was indeed once grown there, producing the best wine, but today you can sample wonderful expressions of this grape from many other parts of Southern Bulgaria, including the Struma Valley. Mavrud is characteristic of the southern regions, as it struggles to survive the cold.
Sometimes I wonder if Mavrud must necessarily be a heavy, intensely oaky wine. This really depends on personal taste and the character of the winemaker. Therefore, do not underestimate its various expressions. In my opinion, anything we label with the grand title of “traditional” tends to be slightly overexposed in our latitudes.
Wine made from Mavrud is… well, the truth is, it can wear many faces. Traditionally, it is seen as a very full-bodied, heavy wine, boasting a ruby colour, oak, and complex aromas. However, in recent years, we have encountered many different variations. We have tasted Mavrud aged for seven or eight years in oak barrels, which was certainly not to our taste. We have also come across a rather innovative Mavrud, exceptionally soft and pleasant, aromatic and light, quite unpretentious, from the Pazardzhik region. Mavrud planted in the Melnik terroir also possesses its own distinct identity; it is simply different and reveals yet another intriguing side of the grape. Generally, you will likely find the greatest variety and supply of Mavrud on the Bulgarian market. Because of this, it is quite a polarising variety: some adore it, while others are not fond of it, even though they keep trying it. We sit somewhere in the middle, but we always feel rather adventurous when opening a new bottle of Mavrud.
Mavrud has a distinctive and memorable aroma, which theoretically should feature notes of blackberry and ripe mulberry. Regardless of the winemaking technique, it is truly recognisable. You can expect all sorts of wines from Mavrud: white, rosé, red, oaked, unoaked, or even dessert wines.
Wineries with our recommended Mavrud wines to try:
- Mavrud Elenovo by Edoardo Miroglio
Rubin
As we explore typical Bulgarian wine grape varieties one by one, we cannot help but be impressed by the enthusiasm and ambition within the sector during the 20th century. So many newly created Bulgarian wine grapes, some based on millennia-old local varieties, others entirely new but derived from world-famous grapes. It is a truly fascinating history, and we can only guess what plans and ideas went through the minds of those who created these crossings fifty to eighty years ago, which we enjoy today.
Rubin is one of these crossings, created in the late 1940s at the Institute of Viticulture and Enology in Pleven. The parents of this variety are Syrah and Nebbiolo. It is a mid-ripening grape, usually ready by mid-September, with good disease resistance and reliable yields. It produces wines with a deep, almost opaque ruby colour, alongside flavours and aromas of black and red fruits. Rubin wines take beautifully to oak ageing and possess great potential for cellaring. The most suitable places for growing Rubin are in southern and eastern Bulgaria, and we have stumbled upon some remarkable Rubin wines.
Rubin wines to taste:
- Rubin and Merlot by Uva Nestum
- Rubin by Yalovo Winery
- Rubin Elenovo by Edoardo Miroglio
Broad-Leaved Melnik Vine / Melnik
Here we cannot remain impartial, as the Melnik varieties are our absolute favourite Bulgarian grapes. Broad-Leaved Melnik Vine (Shiroka Melnishka Loza) is currently just one of them, but it is actually the “original”. It is the one from which the other variations descend, that wild variety which thrived only in the Petrich and Sandanski regions because it is demanding and rather special.
Broad-Leaved Melnik ripens late, yet it does not withstand the cold. It is a real challenge to get it to ripen fully, as the weather in late September and October is not always so forgiving. The variety has been cultivated for centuries in the area around Bulgaria’s smallest town, Melnik, and seemingly nowhere else. Perhaps in Northern Greece, though there is no proof of this. Attempts to grow it in other regions of Bulgaria have so far been unsuccessful.
This is a variety that yields wines with excellent ageing potential. Its main drawbacks are twofold: late ripening and a lighter colour extraction. This is why many experiments were conducted with it during the 20th century, resulting in numerous crossings, some of which remain very popular today, while others have faded into obscurity.
💡 If you are interested in learning more about this wonderful winery in the Struma Valley, see what we experienced here: Zlaten Rozhen Wine Cellar
Interesting wines featuring Broad-Leaved Melnik:
- Broad-Leaved Melnik (Goblet-trained): THE SECRETS OF THE RARE BULGARIAN VARIETIES FROM VILLA MELNIK
- Villa Melnik – Broad-Leaved Melnik from their different series: Bergule, Aplauz, Rare Varieties
The ‘children’ of Broad-Leaved Melnik: Melnik 55 and beyond
Due to the temperamental nature of the Broad-Leaved Melnik, several crossings based on this grape have been created over the years, making cultivation slightly easier and less risky. Perhaps the most popular of these is Melnik 55, a crossing of Broad-Leaved Melnik with mixed pollen from Durif, Jurançon, Valdiguié, and Cabernet Sauvignon. It ripens a bit earlier and carries the distinct aromas and spirit of Melnik wines. There are a few other similar crossings, such as Melnik Jubilee 1300, Ruen, and Melnik 82. It is common to refer to the variations of the Melnik variety simply as “Melnik”. Furthermore, it is a frequent practice for wines from these grapes to be blends of several Melnik variations. The entire family is characterised by high acidity and a solid tannic structure, allowing for the creation of high-quality wines that take well to barrel ageing and mature gracefully.
💡 If you are interested in learning more about the hospitality of the Rupel winery, see what we experienced here: Rupel Winery – Spasovo
Wines to taste:
Melnik 55 is probably the most widely planted of the Melnik varieties. Every winery around Melnik and along the Struma Valley will offer you Melnik 55 wines in one form or another, so our advice is to wander around and taste; more is always better. Our favourite wineries include Villa Melnik, Zlaten Rozhen, and Rupel.
- Aplauz Melnik 55 Premium Reserve 2017, Villa Melnik
- Rupel – Melnik 55 Gramatik
- As a dessert option: Sweet wine Melnik 55, 2017 vintage – Rupel
Melnik Jubilee 1300
This variety is a cross between Broad-Leaved Melnik and the Georgian grape Saperavi. It was created at the Sandanski Experimental Station in 1963. In 1981, out of all the Broad-Leaved Melnik crossings, this specific variety was chosen to be dedicated to the 1300th anniversary of the founding of the Bulgarian state, thus earning the name Melnik Jubilee 1300.
An interesting fact about Saperavi is that its pulp is red, producing wines with a deep, opaque colour. It is also one of the few grapes of this type that yields wines with true cellaring potential (a useful piece of knowledge we picked up from Yana Petkova’s book “A, B, Wine”). The crossing with Broad-Leaved Melnik was selected for its early ripening and intense pigmentation. The resulting wines boast a deep purple hue alongside vivid flavours and aromas.
Where to try Melnik Jubilee 1300?
Melnik Rubin / Ruen
The only thing the Rubin and Melnik Rubin varieties share is the word “rubin” in their names. Melnik Rubin is not simply Rubin grown in the Struma Valley, but an entirely different grape variety. Well, the other shared trait is that it is a cross of other grapes created in Bulgaria.
Melnik Rubin was created in the 1970s as a cross between Broad-Leaved Melnik and Cabernet Sauvignon (though there is some debate as to whether Cabernet Sauvignon is definitively the “father”, it is generally accepted for now). Interestingly, the Ruen variety is almost identical, being a cross of the same two grapes, but it was created in Plovdiv. We must admit that we are not deeply versed in the technical details, so we shall leave the theory there.
We have encountered wonderful wines from both variations. The Ruen grape features rather wild aromas of forest fruits, cornelian cherries, and rosehips. Be sure to try it if you get the chance.
Wines to taste:
- Melnik Cepage by Zlaten Rozhen
- Villa Melnik – Rare Varieties: Ruen and Melnik Family Tree
You can best appreciate the Melnik varieties by taking a trip through the region and visiting the local wineries. Every cellar has at least one or two wines made from the local grapes. In some places, the focus on Melnik varieties is even stronger, and you can find single-varietal wines showcasing the different Melnik mutations.
Pamid, the everyday table wine
Pamid was once the “everyday” wine of the Bulgarian people. Light red, delicate, highly drinkable, and unpretentious, it is perfect for any dining table. Being a resilient and relatively easy-to-grow variety with high yields, it is no coincidence that Pamid accompanied the lives of a large portion of Bulgarians, and others too, for many years. Although its popularity has waned today, whether due to changing fashions or other reasons, Pamid can still be found across Bulgarian lands, and so can the wines made from it.
It is claimed that Pamid and its variations have been cultivated since the time of the Thracians. It is native to the Balkans, found also in the territories of Turkey, North Macedonia, and Albania. It is moderately resistant to the cold and equally so to drought. Furthermore, the grapes are resistant to grey rot. The vines produce high yields and ripen in the first half of September. The grapes themselves are wonderfully tasty for fresh consumption. One of its few drawbacks is that the bunches are quite prone to dropping berries.
The minor peculiarity of Pamid as a grape is that it produces light, pale red wines, suitable for consumption immediately after clarifying but entirely unsuited for cellaring. Thus, Pamid proves to be an excellent variety for rosé or light young wines. Until recently, it featured mainly in blends, but in the last few years, lighter wines have enjoyed a surge in interest, and more and more wineries are releasing single-varietal Pamid wines onto the market.
Gamza
Gamza is one of the varieties we should have started with, even though it is not certain if its homeland is Bulgaria. Many countries that were once part of the Ottoman Empire claim this grape originated on their territory. In Serbia and Romania, you might find a similar variety under the name Kadarka. Yet, Gamza is so intertwined with Bulgarian history that we perceive it as our very own native grape. It is a late-ripening variety, usually ready towards the end of September, with thin skin. Gamza yields wines with gentle tannins.
Gamza wines perfectly suit the Northwest, the region where the grape thrives best. It is wild, beautiful, playful, and light, yet it leaves lasting impressions and sensations. You can and should drink Gamza almost everywhere in the Northwest, and it will not disappoint. Our first attempts to tell you about Gamza were with the wines from Bononia Estate near Vidin.
💡 If you are interested in learning more about the wine and life along the banks of the Danube, see what we experienced here: Bononia Estate: A Wine Adventure on the Banks of the Danube
Wines to taste:
- Gamza by Bononia Estate, Vidin
- Gamza by Gorun Winery, in the Pleven region
Evmolpia
Evmolpia is one of the most intriguing contemporary Bulgarian grape varieties, and we are following its development with great interest. It is no accident, but a deliberate Bulgarian innovation, a fascinating cross between the mighty Mavrud and the international Merlot. It is the fruit of the labour of agronomists D. Babrikov and S. Kukunov from the Agricultural University in Plovdiv.
Its name is no coincidence. “Evmolpia” is one of the ancient names for Plovdiv, symbolically linking this modern variety to the millennia-old winemaking traditions of our lands. Officially recognised in 1991 and also known as “Thracian Mavrud”, its success was nearly instantaneous. A wine made from Evmolpia won first prize at the International Congress on Viticulture and Oenology in the USA as early as 1993.
The variety was created to solve the so-called “Mavrud problem”. It retains the character of its ancient parent but offers earlier ripening (around early September, achieving high sugar levels), increased cold resistance, and softer tannins. The vines are high-yielding (producing 1,500 to 2,000 kilograms per decare).
The grapes have a thin but tough, darkly pigmented skin, giving the wine a deep colour and solid structure. At the same time, the juicy flesh of the berry has a relatively neutral taste, which is not a flaw, but quite the opposite. It turns it into a perfect blank canvas for the winemaker. Depending on the terroir and winemaking style, Evmolpia can produce anything from lighter, fruit-forward wines to full-bodied, concentrated, oak-aged expressions, each revealing a different character.
Wines to taste:
- Via Antica: Be sure to try their Evmolpia to experience the natural, terroir-driven character of the variety, achieved with minimal intervention.
- Tsarev Brod: A fascinating example from a winery that pioneered the popularisation of the variety outside the Thracian Lowland.
White wine grape varieties of Bulgaria
Dimyat
Dimyat is perhaps the most popular of the white Bulgarian wine grape varieties. I recently read that its ancestors are the Moldovan Coarnă Albă and Gouais Blanc, while in other Eastern European countries it is known as Smederevka. Dimyat wines possess a delicate aroma. It is a late-ripening grape, ready in the second half of September. Its bunches are medium-sized, conical, and semi-compact, while the berries are large, oval, and greenish-yellow. You can find interesting Dimyat wines all over Bulgaria. Many of them are rather light and best enjoyed young, but you will also discover some highly refined, premium examples.
Wines to taste:
- Dimyat by Clos Bibliotheque near Varna
- Orange Wine Barrel Fermented 2016 – Maryan Winery
- Check out the entire Maryan range, there is much to enjoy.
Besides white wines, you might often come across “orange wine” made from Dimyat. This happens when the fermentation takes place with the grape skins, giving the wine a lovely orange hue. Our favourite orange Dimyat comes from the Maryan winery in the Elena Balkan mountains, though the grapes themselves hail from the Nova Zagora region.
💡 If you are interested in learning more about their beautiful wines, see what we experienced here: Maryan Winery
Tamianka (not entirely Bulgarian)
We have a huge soft spot for this aromatic variety and never miss an opportunity to explore the wines made from it. In truth, there is some debate surrounding Tamianka; it is quite closely related to the French Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, a fact we learned in Alsace. However, “Tamianka” simply sounds more Bulgarian, and as a popular variety, we are including it here without claiming it is a purely local creation.
A characteristic feature of Tamianka is that it ripens in the first half of September and then raisinises on the vine. It accumulates high sugar levels, making it a favoured choice for premium semi-dry and dessert wines. Yet, Tamianka also produces wonderful dry wines that are incredibly fragrant. Sometimes we try to pair them with suitable light food, but we also love sipping them just as they are on a weekend afternoon, especially during the warmer months.
Tamianka wines to taste:
- Tamianka by Uva Nestum, Gotse Delchev
- Bratanov Winery – Tamianka Late Harvest (dessert wine)
- Tamianka by Rupel Winery
Sandanski Misket
Sandanski Misket is a cross between Broad-Leaved Melnik and Tamianka (or French Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains). Thanks to the Broad-Leaved Melnik, Sandanski Misket yields fresh wines with aromas of citrus and linden blossom. These wines tend to have a medium body.
Wines to taste:
Keratsuda
Keratsuda is a traditional Bulgarian grape variety from the southwestern regions, once typical of the Struma Valley and the Sandanski-Petrich basin. Although the variety is known and almost everyone has probably heard of it, very few plantings remain today, and pure single-varietal Keratsuda wines are practically non-existent on the market. Some wineries add a little into blends, but in some cases, it is not even mentioned on the label. It is a late-ripening grape, ready around the end of September. The vines grow vigorously and yield abundant crops; they are resistant to drought, cold, and rot.
Wines to taste:
- Keratsuda by Villa Melnik
Gergana
This is an almost lost grape variety, but it has recently begun to experience a revival as an exotic relic from the recent past. It was created in the 1970s from Muscat Ottonel and Dimyat. Although you will not find much about it in literature, and generally it is quite hard to find Gergana wine, it is fascinating to see how it will develop.
Wines to taste:
- Gergana by Tsarev Brod Winery – they also offer a sparkling version
Kokorko
A highly obscure grape variety that we had the pleasure of tasting at the Yalovo winery. This is likely one of the rarest wines we have ever tried. A pale, almost transparent wine, the colour of white gold. Aromas of white flowers and fresh summer fruits (peaches and apricots), but also a certain sweet note, perhaps reminiscent of baked apples (these are our own notes from the Yalovo tasting).
Until then, we had only heard of this nearly lost Bulgarian variety; we had never met anyone who worked with it, nor had we ever tasted a wine made from it. Dimitar, the winemaker at Yalovo, accidentally discovered a few Kokorko vines in a Misket vineyard. He plans to propagate them and establish a new small vineyard with these lovely white, high-yielding grapes that offer such an intriguing flavour. Currently, Kokorko vines can only be found scattered among other plantings; there are no significant Kokorko vineyards. We could not find much information about this vanishing grape either, but we did learn that it grows in large bunches with small, speckled berries. It was also known by various peculiar names, such as Kvasi Brada (Wet Beard), Mokri Brada, and Momina Salza (Lily of the Valley).
In conclusion
Although we make no claims of being exhaustive, we have tried to guide you through a selection of Bulgarian wine grape varieties, both popular and obscure, growing across our lands. Of course, Bulgaria boasts fantastic examples of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc… I will not bore you with those. But the most important thing to discuss is that Bulgaria produces unique and magnificent wines from indigenous varieties, and we want to share them with you. So, keep following us to see what other wine experiences we have to tell you about. And do not hesitate to plan your visits to Bulgarian wineries; the people are incredibly welcoming, and you are certain to make new friends.